I turn the corner and… dit-dit-dit-dah! The opening chords of Beethoven’s 5th symphony resonate in my head. For before me, is a vision most grand and classical —

the skyline of Prague. On the other bank of the gentle Vlatva, are rows upon rows of varied red roofs, tall spires and domes, steadily ascending,

culminating at the Prague castle and cathedral, high on a hill above the city! The setting sun’s rays are in spectacular disarray around its silver-lined silhouette…! If Life came with background music, now would be the resounding crescendo! I want to stand and applaud, Bravo! Encore!

Drawn towards the glowing western bank, I come to a bridge, but don’t cross it… or not right away!

For historic Charles Bridge (Karlův Most), named after the greatest Czech ruler Charles IV, tugs at the heart-strings. A low stone bridge from another age, it’s like an old-time sketch in Sepia!

Stone arches, guard towers, gaslight lamp posts and about 30 baroque statues on the balustrade… each with a quaint story of its own! 

At Karlův Most no mood of day is ordinary…! Misty at dawn, it is haunting and mesmerizing. Later, it is vibrant, bustling with tourists and artists. By dusk, the accordionist strikes up a tune, and enchantment scales new heights!

Enchanting evening as an accordion player synchs with the setting sun

And at night, the Castle behind lights up, vintage lamp posts and statues throw shadows and light — romantic, elegant beyond compare! I come back to this darling of a bridge several times — to cross it, to be on it, to admire it… to admire it again!

I finally get across to Pražský hrad (Prague Castle), rattling up in a red old-world tram! Dating from the 9th century, the castle complex is vast! According to folklore, Prague Castle was born of a vision — the legendary Queen Libuše foresaw the great

castle on a steep cliff above the river Vlatva, with the glorious city growing around it! Here spectacular gardens, palaces, churches and

buildings vie for attention — in every architectural style across a millennium. St Vitus Cathedral, with its tall Gothic spires, is the most impressive.

Apart from spectacular vaulted ceilings, it

houses the tombs of Bohemian Kings, and their precious crown jewels. It took six centuries (yes centuries!) to build this cathedral, bearing the stamp of many famed architects!

Events at the castle are largely at the core of Prague’s history. When the Nazi regime forced the handing over of Prague to the Third Reich in 1938 (even before WWII),

Hitler spent a night at Prague castle, relishing the spectacular views of Prague and his vanity (I’m the monarch of all I survey!). It is believed Prague was spared WWII bombing, mainly due to Hitler’s fondness for Prague, leaving it

almost intact, unlike most other European cities.

My feet go cross-eyed from the uneven cobblestone, but I wander on heedless… to witness the changing of the guards at the Presidential palace, to gape at the immense outdoor mosaic of the Last Judgement, to walk the Golden Lane where Kafka lived and wrote for some years, to feel the scenes my camera was capturing… Praha, the Golden city, the city of 100 spires!

Directly down the steep stairs from the castle is adorable Malá Strana or Lesser Town. Hidden

nooks, heavenly gardens, churches, and quirky statues(!!), it is an ambience to be savored. The riverside offers many quiet escapes from the crowds — a beer by the Vlatva, to rest, to reflect… Another interesting point is Lennon Wall — during the youth movement against the communist repression (late 1980’s), the authorities would daily paint over the Lennon inspired graffiti on the wall.

Yet more would appear overnight in protest! Today it’s a symbol of Freedom and Peace.

You know what is difficult in Prague? Picking a favorite river bank!!

Old Town Square with the Gothic Church of Our Lady before Tyn (mid-14th century)

Across the river on the eastern bank, I’m dumbstruck at Old Town (Staré Mésto)! This neighborhood has so much going on, it’s almost confounding! The setting is like a medieval town on a busy market day: old buildings, little shops, historic Town Hall, huge market square, crowds

and a maze of narrow cobbled streets that twist and turn every which way! The massive sculpture of Jan Hus, the earliest of Church reformers, harkens of times when gory public executions regaled throngs in such squares! And

the famed astronomical clock from 1410, still ticks! (But is being renovated 🙁 — my excuse to return, to see how it tracks astronomical details… and how a skeleton — depicting Death — strikes time!) Right there, stands Klementinum too, the world’s most baroque library, from the 1770’s.

Contrarily, Old Town delights also include glittering crystal shops, tacky souvenirs stalls, Trdlnik (a Bohemian delicacy) and more beer — here I’ve been jostled, have probably been conned, and most certainly got lost… but loved it anyway! It’s the kind of place where I toss the itinerary, and just walk on… knowing I’ll lose my way, but still find gems! Gems like the old Jewish quarter. Like Kafkaesque statues and monuments. Like a garden restaurant, serving the yummiest Czech goulash!

Metamorphosis, sculpture by David Cerny (of Kafka’s head)

Prague… Praha… a dream! So why is Prague so special? Is it just another beautiful historic European city? I ponder this… Is it due to its long-

held status as a cultural capital, with architectural details at every nook?! Or due to its long, checkered history —

the golden Era, surge for reformation, the bulletless surrender and occupation, the Iron Curtain, and breaking free…? Or maybe because in a rich base of old-world charm, chunks of local eats (and beer!!), a dash of the quirky and tacky, a sprinkling of unpronounceable Czech names come together into a goulash extraordinaire! Maybe its all these and more, set against that masterpiece of a backdrop so classical, I almost curtesy in awe!

The draw of Prague can hardly be explained, the magic has to be felt! For me, the sensation is best symbolized by Karlův Most, the bridge from across the ages: calm, unhurried yet vibrant, alive…

beautiful through every season; enduring and endearing; watching the ebbs and flows of Vlatva, and Time…

Notes: Feature Image is of  the View of river Vltava and its bridges, as seen from Letná (pc: Wiki user Che)

Unless otherwise credited, all pictures belong to the blogger DistantBeckons

Scroll down to leave your thoughts… they’re awesome to have! Name, email are not necessary, but welcome either way! 🙂

GALLERY: